It's All Downhill from Here (and Uphill)

El Tigre

Along the Road




November 15, 2009

Uspallata-Mendoza

Karen enjoyed this day so much. She will be creating today's entry.

Finally, I get a say! With full tummies and our bikes loaded we opt to leave the scenic little town of Uspallata high in the Andes early, knowing that the temperatures would rise to over 30 degrees in the full heat of the day. The sky was a brilliant blue and the colourful mountains (tones of blue, green and red) with snow caps surrounded the village. All was well with the world, since I was sporting a new flashy (although quite large) helmet obviously made for someone with a much bigger head AND John promised 100 km of gentle downhill to Mendoza (even though we saw conflicting signs that said 94 to 120 km to Mendoza - on such a gorgeous day it is easy to ignore anything that may dampen the spirits).

The road was good with a rough pavement and about and 8" paved shoulder and OK rough gravel for another good 1.5 m beyond this. What was really nice was we had very long views forward and back. The view was nothing short of spectacular and it was an effort not to stop every five minutes for a photograph. And this downhill was everything that John promised. If there was a downside, it was the long lines of tandem trucks and buses transporting their goods from town to town; I was really missing my helmet mirror that was attached to my much loved Giro helmet which no doubt found a new home in Mendoza; so John had to stay behind me and call out to me every time a transfer truck was coming from behind. We decided to get off well of the pavement when something was approaching from ahead and behind at the same time because there was not enough room for all of us on the road at once and you are never quite sure whether getting their load of potatoes to the market on time is more important then running over a stupid cyclist who should have more sense. This worked very well as long as John was attentive or didn't stop to take a picture without telling me...so after one particularly scary event when I and two transfer trucks were lined up across the road, we (John & I) decided that I would call back to him when a truck/bus was approaching and he would respond whether a truck/bus was approaching from behind and if I did not get an answer then I would head for the ditch assuming that he was otherwise occupied.

We cycled by golden cliffs (similar to those in Bryce Mountain National Park Utah and a feature referred to as El Tigre because it looked like a golden tiger pouncing amidst the green and blue background.

What could possibly make this ride a little nicer? Well, I could have done without the 30 km head wind which caused me to have to push a medium gear downhill (avg 16 km speed) with John tucked in behind me saying that he wasn't even peddling; or how about a refreshment stop with a cool drink and (it's 3 pm) so where was that little town 'Portrillos' where we planned to get lunch ....don't get me wrong after 70 km of cycling, the corner store with the white bread and thin slice of pancetta and yogurt was a welcome sight but the 12 km (very steep and well over 30 degree heat) the climb out was not and of course the 120 km to Mendoza was becoming more evident. Did it help to have John point up to the road (above) and say 'see it is all downhill from here', when from even the earliest years of bike riding you know that if you have to point up to the road that it means climbing a hill?

The road got much busier and the shoulder deteriorated ~50 km before Mendoza but John recognized a smaller road from Google Earth which took us into the city. OK, I (we) made the 130+km all in one piece. I was tired, hungry, grouchy and very dirty; I had fallen once when I hit the gravel shoulder (only bruises to show for it) which seemed to delight John to no end, as he could now give me some cycling tips.

In Mendoza, a lovely but dusty city with lots of green parks with fountains, it didn't take us long to find a small hotel room at the Lazer Hotel in the City Centre with barely enough room to pull out stuff into but a hot shower, a fan and an OK bed.

We showered changed and headed out to find some dinner. The food is excellent and the portions huge. We have taken to ordering a salad and a main course to share with wine or beer. This brought an end to likely our most scenic and memorable day on the bike (despite the trials at the time).

Argentina or Bust

A Glimpse of the Andes

November 14, 2009

Santiago-Uspallata by Autobus

We got up early and were lucky enough to convince the staff to let us have an early breakfast. Then, we loaded the bikes and headed to the bus terminal.

It was Saturday and the number of people on the sidewalks was small. We ride on the wide sidewalks until the bike lane begins. It's much safer.

We arrived early and looked for fruit (strawberries, actually) and other food and drink for the bus trip. We got a couple of empanadas - the clerk was surprised that I didn't want them caliente (hot).

We packed the bikes in their bags and our panniers in the MEC airline totes. The bus driver caused a fuss and made me return to the ticket booth. With his hands, he described the enormous bikes we wanted on board. 3,600 pesos later and all was well. All of this was adding insult to injury - we had to pay for a Mendoza ticket even though we were getting off early.

The trip north to the pass at Los Andes was great - lots of exciting scenery. We stopped at a construction site to let other traffic come through. A pedlar came aboard and we bought the best GORP (look it up) ever. The peanuts were freshly roasted and the raisins were plump and soft. Pedlars come aboard at most stops on long distance bus trips. You also see them walking through traffic at intersections selling bebidas (drinks), snacks and, in the evening, flowers. At one intersection, we saw a gymnast perform everytime the light was red. He had time to collect cash before the light turned green.

We climbed and climbed and climbed. Karen's batteries died and all the photos (and videos) are on my camera (no cable). It was spectacular. At one point we could see down about 12 switchbacks as we climbed to the pass. There was no need to buy lunch, we were served a ham and cheese sandwich and 7Up.

We reached Argentina and the mountains changed. They are much more colourful - perhaps because we are closer to them.

At the passport control, immigration, customs centre we had to wait 2 and a half hours while they processedthe buses ahead of us. They unloaded our bus and searched it. We tried the empanadas rather than have them confiscated (cheese and meat products are not allowed across the border). Of course, my bike was the first piece of luggage picked for examination. However, all turned out well and we made it through.

We flew down the mountain passes eventually arriving at Uspallata. We and our luggage were dropped off at the side of the road (next to a gas station). Four pieces of luggage quickly became 2 bikes and 8 panniers.

Disaster struck - Karen left her helmet (with mirror) on the bus. Uspallata is a staging area for kayak and mountian biking expeditions and we went to one operation in hopes of getting a helmet. Karen was offered a kayaking helmet (bright yellow) but declined. We visited a bike repair and a motorcycle - bicycle shop but both were closed and didn' open at 6:00 PM when they were supposed to open. We later found out that there was a significant Argentine soccer game in progress and everything stopped.

To fill our time, we toured the village and got a hotel room. Then, we had drinks at The Tibet Cafe (it houses memorabilia from Seven Years in Tibet, a movie filmed here). Once the game was over the bike shop opened and Karen got a helmet. It is not CSA approved.

Later still (around 10:00 PM) we had pollo parrillo. The cooks uses a wood fire to obtain coals that are used to heat the grill beside it. We had ensalada, papas frite and vino blanco.

Dessert was a shared ice cream on the way back to our hotel.

Tomorrow, we ride.

Back To Santiago

This is La Casa Chueca.

November 13, 2009

Talca - Santiago

We headed back to Talca via the incredible dirt road and later cycling lanes.

After arriving at the bus station we got our tickets. From Santiago to Talco, our tickets were 6,400 pesos (about $20) paid by VISA plus 3,000 pesos for the bikes; the return fare was 7,000 pesos (cash only) but no bike charge. More of an art than a science...

Once we were in Santiago, we went to the second bus terminal (international) and bought our tickets for Uspallata for 24,000 pesos. Disturbingly, none of our VISA cards worked so we paid cash.

We headed back to the hostel following the bike lane along the boulevard and several parks. We have traveled this route several times and have seen some of the same street people on every trip. One man is sleeping by the bike lane; an old woman is sitting in the shade, reading a bible, her hand extended for donations. Every park is filled with couple making out - the time of day doesn't matter.

We have seen a number of demonstrations and wildcat strikes. No one can go to the local wilderness park - the workers have barracaded the gate and have set up a sound system that blasts Chilean music. There is an election looming for president and senate. we see signs everywhere (on walls, roofs,and along the bike lanes on Alameda).

I was having brake problems and stopped a passing cyclist for information regarding bike shops. After listening to my pitiful spanish for a few minutes, he asked, in english, "Where do you want to go?" I explained and he indicated that we should follow him. Victor, his name, is a sixth year engineering studentwho took us to the Engineering student union building where there is a bike workshop. He replaced my faulty brake pad and led us to a cross street with a bike lane that took us to back to our hostel. We gave the student workshop a 5,000 peso donation.

Karen is addicted to the local strawberries and stopped to buy some.

After arriving at the hostel, I gathered our laundry and headed to Roncagua and the laundry. What didn't know is that thetreet name changes and Vicuna MacKenna (our street). I went by it but was saved by the fruit salesman (see above) who redirected me. The combined laundry/dry cleaners was air conditioned and the attendant did everything but fold my clothes.

We headed back to Bellavista and after sometime decide to go to Galindo again. We have had great Chilean food here. Tonight was no exception; my beef filet and fries were great, as were Karen's reinata and salad.

At the hostel, we packed everything in anticipation of our bus trip in the morning.

Banos is Not a Bank (Look it up)

Technical note - Karen's camera is having battery issues. My camera is working well but I am having cable issues (actually, mine is missing). As a result, I will be unable to post any photos until we correct this.

November 12, 2009

La Casa Chueca

Breakfast starts at 8:30. As a result, we have been getting up later and later every day. Homemade granola and yogurt were mainstays of this morning's breakfast. For the first time we had heavier, German style bread. A nice change after a few days of white breads. Coffee and orange coloured sugar water finished it off.

We chattted with Frank, a young German with a pony tail, Crosby Stills & Nash t-shirts and a John Deere cap. He and his brother have made 2 pilgrimages to Max Yasgur's farm in Woodstock, New York. He has seen many of the original Woodstock bands including CSN, Melanie, Neil Young, Country Joe MacDonald and Richie Havens. Like many of the other young Germans here, he has a Chilean girlfriend and no intention of returning to Germany.

We got the bikes packed and headed out at 10:30 AM. A road crew was 'leveling' the gravel road. This meant moving the rocks on the side into the road. It didn't make the ride any better.We bnoth suffered from sore wrists after being battered by the rough roads.

Once we got to the highway, we headed east toward the Andes. They are always there - you get intriguing glimpses from time to time. Some are snow capped; some are grey. There are inactive volcanoes, obvious by their steep sides and sharp point. Unfortunately, photographs do not do them justice and we have been disappoi8nted by those we have taken.

Commercial vineyards and orchards are interspersed among small truck farms. We followed the road until it spit at a Y and the pavement stopped. We went right; the Andes were on our left side for several kilometres. The road had regressed to rough dirt and gravel - we averaged about 13 km an hour. After several bumpy kms, we met another paved road and followed it to San Clemente.

In San Clemente, we visited the tourist bureau and then a supermercado for cash and stuff for lunch. We sat in a park and made ham and cheese sandwiches. We also had yogurt and pear juice (not really, it was a mixture of milk and pear juice. It tasted as bad as it sounds). We found tne banos in the Society for the Assistance of Alcoholics building.

There was a festival celebrating local produce and crafts at the park. We listened to music and strolled past the exhibits. One featured a marijuana growing initiative and the local UFO organization. I wondered if they were related somehow. Actually, the marijuana was for use as hemp and the UFO group took tourists into the mountains.

After our rest, we got back on the bikes and rode further eastward. It was all uphill and our average speed dropped as we got closer to the mountains. We ran out of steam and time once we hit the foohills and turned around at 3:30 PM. We have seen some gauchos (cowboys) but have had a chance to get any good photos.

Getting back to San Clemente, we bought some fresh ice cream and sat on a bench to enjoy it. The bikes draw a lot of attention.

The ride back to the Casa was downhill and the only drawback was our return to the dirt road. In total, we completed 85 km.

We did stop at the wine museums and took a few pictures. The guide was a German who used to work at the Casa but married a Chilean and went native.

Vegetariam supper included boiled potatoes, omelette with mushrooms and mixed mystery vegetables (mostly green in colour). For desert, we had a light \german cake with a couple of small scoops of ice cream.

We sat with two Germans, Alexandra and Armin, an a Swiss, Connie, who had lived in Canada for a short time. During dinner thet decided to trek in the mountains for 6 hours tomorrow. Their trip included a 45 minute taxi trip and a 2 and a half hour bus ride. Atthe end of the day, they will have to get the 5:30 PM bus.

Shortly after dinner, we headed to bed, exhausted.

Heading South

November 11, 2009

We took the 10:30 AM Turbus to Talca today. Luckily, we left the hostel early because Karen got a flat. We found a comparatively quiet spot at a street corner, removed a chunk of glass and put a new tube in. We will be keeping and repairing all tubes - this is our second flat in two days.

The bus left half an hour late and we got in about 2:00 PM. They played a movie, What Happens in Vegas, in spanish. I wonder if the movie is as bad in english.

The scenery was spectacular, with the snow covered Andes on one side and coastal mountains on the other. In between, it switched from brush and cacti to vineyards (sometimes as far as the eye could see) and a lusher countryside as we moved south.

No one at the Talca bus terminal spoke english but somehow we got headed in the right direction and found Av. San Miguel. Enroute Karen spotted a restaurant, Terrun, andwe went for lunch. The owner, Luce, speaks english and was quite delightful.Karen had a big salad and shoe string fries; I had grilled reinata and fries (ten times better than those we get at home).

Then it was back on the bike. The first 4 km was bike route and then one of the worst gravel roads I have ever seen. I may have lost a filling.

La Casa Chueca is an oasis. The place was crawling with Germans. We got settled in and then had a surprisingly good vegetarian dinner.

We met a couple, Bettina and Christian, who were quite remarkable. They were visiting Casa Chueca but staying in their Mercedes Benz overlander (a trailer built on the back of an enormous truck). For a number of years, they worked as clowns in South America assisting hospitalized children and adults. Now, they run a lodge and spa. Their plan is to move to Canada some day.

Tomorrow we ride.

Out and about in Santiago

After a typical hostel breakfast (rolls, butter, jam, cheese, juice and coffee), we pumped our tires and headed out to join La Bicycleta Verde for a tour of Santiago. I got my first flat and borrowed a lime green city bike. Our guides, James and Daniella, did a great job of presenting the city. James, born in Amsterdam, was a bit more open about the former political issues. Chilean families don't discuss politics.

We saw Pablo Neruda's house. While not everyone in Chile agrees with his politics, they admire his passion and love of Chile.

We had lunch at the seafood market. Karen mistakenly ordered cold (really cold) seafood soup. I thought I ordered seafood paella but got hot seafood soup. Mid meal, Karen traded dishes with me and was not co-operative when I suggested she return mine. The hot seafood is great. We ate at a small restaurant after being cajoled by its doorman, Juan. When I told him my name, he said, "Mi hermano!"


Other ride participants were Antoine and Paolina. She is a graphic artist who designs bicycle pictures for ads and brochures. Antione is a young guy who has just opened a bike design and production company. Like a good number of well educated Chleans, they spoke english well.

This afternoon we made reservations at Casa Chueca just outside Talca (250 km south of Santiago) and then rode 6 km to a bus terminal to determine the schedule for tomorrow. Sometimes you have to ride your bike on sidewalks rather than streets. The last 3 kms were on paved cycling route, a nice change.

We will leave Santiago at 10:30 AM and arrive at 1:30 PM.

We then rode to a second terminal to get information about buses to Argentina. We will head there on Saturday. On Friday, we will return to Santiago and the same hostel.

We returned to Galido for supper. Tonight's supper was grilled fish for Karen and barbequed chicken for me. Both were great.

We finished the day with tea, chocolate and packing.

Paging Passengers Smith and White-Smith

We made it to Toronto easily enough but had barely enough time to move from Gate 132 to the International Departure Gate 172.

We stopped at Starbucks for a hot drink for the plane and got to the waiting area in time to hear the message in the title. We were the last two passengers to get seated. Just in time...

The trip was long but uneventful.

We arrived in Santiago at 11:30 AM and after explaining our bikes a few times got a taxi into the city. For much of its route the highway followed the Rio Mapoche. There were squatter communities along the banks and piles of burning refuse. There are mountains on all sides.

We arrived fairly quickly at Hostel Rio Amazonas, a nice spot. We did a bit of unpacking and walked to the Bellavista area. There we met a Fench couple on a year long cycling tour with their four children ranging in age from 3 to 11. The parents are riding recumbents, one a tandem, with two trailers and a child seat on the single.

We ate at Galindo, a restaurant serving traditional Chilean food. Karen had white beans, red pepper and pumpkin with beef. I hadcorn pie with chicken and beef. Afterward, we had great cafe con leche.

Returning to the hostel, a van pulled up and I thought I recognized one of the occupants. I asked him if he was interested in getting a coffee. He was shocked. Mike (see above) plays basketball with my next door neighbour, Dick Miller, and can be seen at Local Jo (product placement) on weekends. Mike is here working on a Chilean Habitat for Humanity project.

We put our bikes together, got scrubbed up and met a classmate of Ryan's, Erin, and her mother, Martha. We had Pisco Sours (highly recommended) and had m0re Chilean food.

Tomoorow we have a city tour by bike.